Paris Looking Forward And Back

Day 7, Aug 21st 2020   8th, 15th, and 14th arrondissements

In a hurry?

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Today, I headed to the far-flung 15th arrondissement, the leftest on the Left Bank, with the 80-degree heat turning my freckles from threesome to orgy. The 15th is essentially the only arrondissement in Paris that you couldn't film a 19th-century costume drama in without a shit ton of CGI. There are skyscrapers, quirky ones and hip ones that look like they were designed by Ray-Ban. And they're close together, rather than padded out apologetically with lots of Belle Époque white space as happens in other arrondissements. The architectural swooshes, reflective glass, and chicly visible elevators all add to the entrepreneurial feel of the riverside Quarters. The streets further inland are among the most populous of the city but also among the leafiest and widest, making it eminently explorable.

The Jardin d'Erivan, captured in the morning light. In the spirit of WeWork wall decor, I needlessly made it grayscale. 75008 Paris. Lexia Snowe, 2020

An RER train crosses the Pont de Bir-Hakeim, heading toward the Gare Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel, with the towers of the 15th arrondissement in its backdrop. Lexia Snowe, 2020

Some words here on the next two images, taken in the Jardin Mémorial des Enfants du Vel’ d’Hiv’. Located in the Grenelle quarter, this is a memorial park for the victims of the largest arrest of Jews in France during the Second World War. On July 16th and 17th in 1942, 13,512 Jews in Paris (over 4,000 of them children) were rounded up by the French police and confined—little better than cattle—in the Vélodrome d'Hiver, a stadium and indoor cycling track once located near this park. They were then sent to their deaths at Auschwitz. The memorial park was inaugurated on July 17th, the 75th anniversary of the "Vel d'Hiv" roundup, as those two days have come to be known.

A statue in the Jardin Mémorial des Enfants du Vel’ d’Hiv’, with photographs of real-life victims in its backdrop. 7 Rue Nélaton, 75015 Paris. Lexia Snowe, 2020

Names of the more than 4,000 Jewish children who were mass arrested by the French Police on July 16th and 17th in 1942. 75015 Paris. Lexia Snowe, 2020

The Montparnasse Tower, a 59-story skyscraper, with an office building in its foreground throwing back the blue sky. Constructed in the early 1970s, this was the tallest skyscraper in France until 2011. 17 Boulevard de Vaugirard, 75015 Paris. Lexia Snowe, 2020

New Paris, meet Old Paris. As spotted in the Place Denfert-Rocherau in the 14th Arrondissement. Lexia Snowe, 2020